Keeping the Heat In

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Chapter 2: Materials

Introduction

Whether you’re doing the work yourself or hiring a contractor, it’s important to know what the right materials are for your particular job. Choosing the right materials and installing them properly will ensure that the finished product lives up to your expectations.

This chapter describes the three types of materials used when keeping the heat in: insulation, air-barrier materials and vapour-barrier materials.

Review the chapters in this book that deal specifically with your particular project and use this information to choose the most appropriate materials.

Part I: Insulation

Requirements for Insulation

Insulation’s main function is to keep the heat in. To be effective, insulation must be the following:

• resistant to heat flow;
• able to fill the space completely and evenly;
• durable; and
• for some locations, able to withstand exposure to heat or moisture.

Several different insulation materials may be used at different locations in the house envelope, depending on the space available for the insulation, ease of access and other installation requirements.

The Proper Choice of Insulation

The proper choice of insulation depends on its final use. In most applications, good resistance to heat flow is not the only thing you will have to consider. In specific situations, insulation may also need to have any number of the following properties:

• resistance to high temperatures;
• resistance to moisture flow (can it reduce the movement of water vapour?);
• resistance to air movement (can it act as an air barrier?); and
• when required, a fire-rated protective covering.

Once you have matched the material properties with the specific application, consider the following installation factors:

• Is it relatively easy to install?
• Is it the best buy for the space available (either high insulating value per dollar if you have lots of open space, or high insulating value per thickness if space is restricted)?
• Is it available locally?
• Will it be easy to install the insulation to fill the space completely?
• Can it conform to surface irregularities?
• Is it rigid enough to provide support for finished materials or resist pressures against its surfaces?
• Does one insulation require more accessory products than another (fire protection, framing, air and vapour barrier)?

In short, the choice of insulation will largely depend on how it will be used. The chapters on insulating walls, basements and attics discuss the types of insulation commonly used for these applications. Fortunately, particular insulation jobs will quickly eliminate some materials, making the choice much easier.

Naturally, cost is a factor in the choice of material. Generally, the cost per RSI value is lower for loose-fill or batt-type materials than for rigid board or foam-type insulations. However, the price of the basic material is just one aspect. In some cases, high material costs may be offset by lower installation costs or the preference of the installer for a particular insulation technique. A better comparison can be made using the installed cost. This includes the cost of the insulation material plus the cost of required accessories and installation.

Insulations are manufactured from a wide range of materials, including melted glass spun into fibres, expanded volcanic rock, recycled newsprint and foam plastic.

However, there are only four basic forms of insulation that provide a ready means of classification: batt or blankets, loose-fill insulation, rigid or semi-rigid boards, and spray-foam insulation. The following are detailed descriptions of all these categories.

Summary of Insulation Types

Batt or Blanket Insulation

Batt or blanket insulation is relatively easy to install in accessible spaces such as exposed wall cavities and some attics. It conforms to slight surface irregularities and can be cut to fit. Safety equipment and protective clothing are required during installation.

Mineral Fibre

• Includes 0.022 RSI/mm (3.2 R/in.) glass fibre.
• Includes 0.023 RSI/mm (3.3 R/in.) mineral wool.
• Is available in batts or continuous rolls (blankets).
• Will not settle.
• Some products are non-combustible (check with the manufacturer).

Loose-Fill Insulation

Loose-fill insulation is made from a variety of materials, with particles ranging in texture from granular to fluffy. Loose-fill insulation is excellent for filling irregular or inaccessible spaces. It is suitable for walls and floors and excellent in attics and enclosed spaces such as roofs where the space between the joists may be irregular or cluttered with obstacles. It is often handy for filling small spaces or covering ceiling joists. It is not appropriate for below-grade application.

Loose-fill insulation may be blown or poured. Pouring insulation will generally require more material than blowing insulation to achieve a specified RSI value. It is useful for topping up existing insulation in attics and accessible enclosed wall cavities and for filling in cracks and uneven spaces.

The proper installation of blown loose-fill insulation usually requires an experienced, well-trained technician. To achieve the full RSI value, the material must be installed following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Safety equipment and protective clothing are required during installation. The most important aspect of installation is following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cellulose Fibre

• Made from shredded newsprint treated with chemicals that resist fire and fungal growth and inhibit corrosion.
• Because of its small particle size, can fill around obstructions such as nails or electrical wires within cavities.
• May reduce air leakage if installed to the proper densities.

Blown

• Average RSI of 0.025/mm (3.6 R/in.), depending on the paper and chemical mix and the blown density.
• Proper blown density for enclosed cavities is 56 to 72 kg/m³ (3 1/2 to 4 1/2 lb./cu.ft.).

Poured

• Insulating value of 0.024 RSI/mm (3.4 R/in.).
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions for proper application techniques.

Glass Fibre

• A similar material to glass-fibre batts, but chopped up for blowing or pouring applications.
• Hand-poured glass fibre works best in open horizontal surfaces such as attics. Blown glass fibre can be used in both horizontal and vertical applications, but may be difficult to install in cavities that are partially blocked by nails, framing, electrical wiring, etc.
• For walls, the density of application is usually two to two and a half times the recommended rate of application for horizontal surfaces.
• Some classified as non-combustible. Check the manufacturer’s specifications.

Blown

• Average insulating value of 0.020 RSI/mm (2.9 R/in.), depending on density.
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions for proper application techniques.

Poured

• Insulating value of 0.021 RSI/mm (3.0 R/in.).
• IFollow manufacturer’s instructions for proper application techniques.

Mineral Wool (Slag and Rock Wool)

• Treated with oil and binders to suppress dust and maintain shape; a lubricant is added for blowing purposes. Similar to glass fibre in appearance and texture.
• Suitable for accessible attics and inaccessible areas such as wood-frame roofs, walls and floors.
• For walls, the density of application is usually two to two and a half times the recommended rate of application for horizontal surfaces.
• Good for insulating around masonry chimneys as it will not support combustion.

Blown

• Average insulating value of 0.021 RSI/mm (3.0 R/in.), depending on the density at which it is blown in.
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions for proper application techniques.

Poured

• Insulating value of 0.022 RSI/mm (3.2 R/in.).
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions for proper application techniques.

 

Vermiculite

• An expanded mica material that was commonly used in older homes, although less readily available these days.
• Two types – untreated and treated. Untreated vermiculite absorbs moisture. Treated (water-repellant) vermiculite is coated with asphalt for use in areas of high moisture.
• Untreated vermiculite has an average insulating value of 0.016 RSI/mm (2.3 R/in.); treated vermiculite has an average insulating value of 0.017 RSI/mm (2.5 R/in.).
• Usually hand-installed.
• Suitable for both horizontal and vertical applications.
• For vertical applications, it is poured into the wall cavity and packed down with a heavy weight to make sure that the cavity is filled and to prevent future settling.
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions for the proper application techniques.

Rigid Board Insulation

Board insulations are manufactured from glass fibre or foam plastic materials. These materials have a high insulating value per unit thickness, although the cost per RSI value is greater than for loose-fill or batt/blanket insulations.

Insulating boards are lightweight and easy to cut and handle. Fitting them into irregular spaces, however, can be a tedious process. Some boards are now available with an attached fire-resistant, moisture-resistant or decorative covering. It is also possible to purchase specially designed boards that come with their own system of attachment. Regular board materials can be ordered pre-cut to specific sizes for an additional cost.

Glass-Fibre Boards

• Two types of high-density, semi-rigid glass-fibre board are commonly used in residential applications: one designed specifically for below-grade exterior use, and the other an above-grade exterior sheathing.
• Above-grade type covered with a water-repellent breather-type building paper.
• Below-grade type has an insulating value of 0.029 RSI/mm (4.2 R/in.).
• The exterior sheathing has an insulating value of 0.031 RSI/mm (4.4 R/in.).

Expanded Polystyrene

• Produced by bonding coarse beads into rigid foam plastic boards. It is often referred to as “bead board.”
• Manufactured in the following two densities:
  • low density with an insulating value of 0.026 RSI/mm (3.7 R/in.); and
  • high density with an insulating value of 0.028 RSI/mm (4.0 R/in.).
• High-density board is more resistant to moisture than low-density board and can be used on the exterior of foundation walls in dry, sandy soils.
• Must be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight, solvents and some sealants. Use compatible sealants only. Ask your dealer for information.
• Requires covering with a fire-resistant material.

Extruded Polystyrene

• A foam plastic board with fine, closed cells containing a mixture of air and refrigerant gases (fluorocarbons).
• Manufactured in the following two densities:
  • low density with an insulating value from 0.033 RSI/mm (4.7 R/in.) to 0.035 RSI/mm (5.0 R/in.); and
  • high density with an insulating value of 0.035 RSI/mm (5.0 R/in.).
• Must be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight or solvents.
• If joints are sealed properly, can perform as an air barrier, and certain thicknesses may perform as a vapour barrier.
• When installed on interior surfaces, must be covered with a fire-resistant material that is mechanically fastened to the building structure.

Polyurethane and Polyisocyanurate Boards

• Plastic boards made of closed cells containing refrigerant gases (fluorocarbons) instead of air.
• Usually come double-faced with foil or are sometimes bonded with an interior or exterior finishing material.
• Faced boards have a typical insulating value of 0.040 RSI/mm (5.8 R/in.) to 0.050 RSI/mm (7.2 R/in.) and come in a variety of sizes.
• Must be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight and water.
• Must be covered with a fire-resistant material.
• Can act as an air barrier (if seams are well sealed) and as a vapour barrier.
• Use generally limited to areas where a high RSI is desired and space is at a premium.

Phenolic Foam Boards

• Manufactured from phenol formaldehyde resin. Some panels have a water-repellant exterior skin on both sides.
• Suitable for areas where space is at a premium but high RSI values are required.
• Typical insulating value of 0.030 RSI/mm (4.3 R/in.) open cell and 0.058 RSI/mm (8.3 R/in.) closed cell (based on manufacturer’s literature).
• Must be protected from exposure to sunlight and water.

Spray-Foam Insulation

This type of insulation is mixed on the job site by the contractor or installer. The liquid foam is sprayed directly onto the building surface or poured into enclosed cavities using a spray gun driven by a pump. The foam expands in place and sets in seconds. The installation contractor should be trained in the application of the specific product.

Polyurethane Foam

• A pale yellow foam of closed cells containing refrigerant gases (fluorocarbons).
• Typical insulating value of 0.042 RSI/mm (6.0 R/in.). Other values are sometimes quoted, but this value takes into account the loss of refrige-rant gases over time.
• Sprayed onto surfaces in layers less than 50 mm (2 in.) thick and hardens in seconds.
• Can expand up to 28 times its original size and should not be used in enclosed cavities.
• Can be used as an air barrier but not as a vapour barrier.
• Must be protected from prolonged exposure to sunlight and requires covering with a fire-resistant material when used indoors.

Semi-Flexible Isocyanurate Plastic Foam

• A combination of isocyanurate, resins and catalysts forms this open-celled, semi-flexible plastic foam insulation.
• Manufacturers’ literature lists insulating value as 0.030 RSI/mm (4.3 R/in.).
• Some limitations on the thickness that can be applied.
• Can be used as an air barrier.
• Requires covering with a fire-resistant material.

Part II: Air-Barrier Materials

Requirements for Air-Barrier Systems

The air-barrier system is an important part of any retrofit job. It is the main means of protecting the building structure and the insulation from moisture damage. In order to be effective, the air-barrier system must be the following:

• resistant to air movement;
• continuous, completely surrounding the envelope of the house and properly supported by rigid surfaces on both the interior and exterior (to prevent movement in high winds); and
• strong and durable.

A variety of materials are used throughout the envelope to act as the air barrier. In some cases, building materials such as drywall, baseboards or structural members are incorporated into the air barrier by sealing them to adjoining materials.

Air-Barrier System Components

The most common components of an air-barrier system are the following:

• sheet or rigid materials for large surfaces;
• caulking and gaskets for joints between materials that do not move; and
• weatherstripping for joints that do move.

Choosing Air-Barrier Materials

If the material offers resistance to airflow, strength and durability, consider the following installation factors:

• Is it easy to install?
• If installed in a concealed location, will it last the life of the building or will it be accessible and easily repaired?
• Is it compatible with other materials in the system? Can it be successfully sealed to adjacent materials?
• Is the choice of material appropriate for the other work being done on the home? Some renovation work will permit the installation of a new sheet-material air barrier, while other jobs may require comprehensive air-sealing work instead.
• Does it serve other functions such as acting as insulation or as a vapour barrier?

Sheet Materials

Polyethylene Sheeting

• Available in wide sheets, minimizing the number of seams required.
• Seams and edges should be supported on both sides to maintain the seal.
• A thickness of 0.15 mm (6 mil) now commonly installed as an air barrier because it is more durable on the construction site.
• Should be protected from exposure to sunlight. When exposed to sunlight over extended periods (when wrapping the exterior of a house, for example), a UV-stabilized polyethy-lene should be used.
• Should be clear, made from virgin material and labelled. Should conform to the Canadian General Standards Board standard for polyethylene.
• Can also function as a vapour barrier.

Housewrap

• Available in wide sheets, minimizing the number of seams required.
• Acts solely as an air barrier; does not function as a vapour barrier.
• Generally used to wrap the exterior of a house; often bonded to exterior glass-fibre sheathing.
• When installed on the exterior, acts as a wind barrier, preventing wind from reducing the effective RSI value of insulation.
• Should be protected from extended exposure to sunlight.

Rigid Materials

Most solid building components will act as barriers to air. These components include drywall, plaster, plywood, glass, wood and poured concrete (not concrete blocks). Insulating materials such as rigid foam boards also act as air barriers. To be effective, however, the seams between these various materials must be sealed with the appropriate caulking, weatherstripping or gasket. For example, caulking can be used between the baseboard and a wall as well as between the baseboard and the floor, linking the air-sealing qualities of three different building components. The combination of rigid air-barrier materials forms the house’s air-barrier system as long as the joints are well sealed.

Sealants

Caulking is used to seal joints between building components. Most joints move because of changes in moisture and temperature in the building. Some caulking materials can seal a larger joint and accommodate more joint movement than others. Make sure that the caulking you use is compatible with the surfaces you are applying it to.

Caulkings are not permanent and will have to be maintained. They also vary in their durability, compatibility with other materials, suitability for painting and curing time. All sealants will require some extra ventilation of the house after application to let the material cure. Typical curing time will be no more than two or three days for interior applications.

Acoustical Sealant

• Bonds to most surfaces; excellent for use on metal, concrete and gypsum board.
• Excellent for sealing the joints in polyethylene air and vapour barriers, but should be used only where it is sandwiched between two materials.
• Mechanical support (e.g., staples) required when acoustical sealant is used to seal the joints in polyethylene.
• Maximum joint width of 16 mm (5/8 in.); accepts some joint movement (10 percent).
• Very durable (20-year life expectancy).
• Non-hardening and not paintable; use should be limited to unexposed applications.

Acrylic Latex

• A water-based emulsion sealant.
• Excellent for non-porous surfaces such as aluminum, glass and ceramic tile, but may be used to seal joints with wood surfaces.
• Maximum joint width of 10 mm (3/8 in.); limit use to joints where little or no movement is expected.
• Durable (10-year life expectancy).
• Available in a wide range of colours; paintable.
• Can attract dust over time, especially when used next to floors.

Butyl Rubber

• A synthetic rubber sealant.
• Bonds to most surfaces; particularly suited to metal and masonry.
• Appropriate for a joint width up to 13 mm (1/2 in.); accepts some movement of joint (5 to 10 percent).
• Durable (10-year life expectancy).
• Available in a variety of colours; paintable after one week’s curing.
• Ventilation required during application and curing (up to three days).

Silicone Sealant

• Solvent-free silicone compound; produces a flexible, watertight seal upon curing.
• Good adhesion to most surfaces; primers may be required on wood, steel or anodized aluminum.
• Excellent for large moving joints: up to 25 mm (1 in.) joint width and 12 to 50 percent joint movement.
• Highly durable (over 20-year life expectancy).
• Most types not paintable.
• Available in several colours and clear; clear silicone is particularly suited for sealing highly visible joints where the caulking should not be noticeable.
• Ventilation required during application and curing.

Polysulphide Sealant

• Produces a flexible sealant upon curing.
• Ideally suited for use on stone, masonry and concrete surfaces when used with a special primer.
• Maximum joint width of 25 mm (1 in.); will accept joint movement of 12 to 25  percent.
• Excellent durability (over 25-year life expectancy).
• Available in several colours; paintable.
• Ventilation required to remove potentially toxic vapours.

Urethane Foam Sealant

• Available in a dispensing system with spray nozzles or individual aerosol spray cans.
• Foam types are available with different rates of expansion depending on ingredients and the amount of pre-curing. Check the cans carefully for details on sizes of cracks that can be filled. Some types expand slowly and moderately; others expand quickly and greatly. Use gloves and a drop cloth.
• Bonds well to most surfaces except polyethylene, teflon or silicone plastics.
• Very good for filling larger joints and cavities where conventional sealant materials would not be suitable (i.e., header/joist intersections and around plumbing and vent openings).
• Should not be used at window headers since it can transfer structural loads if the wall settles.
• Good durability (10- to 20-year life expectancy).
• Like all insulating foams, must be covered with a fire-resistant material.
• Ventilation required to remove potentially toxic vapours.

High-Tempature Stove or Muffler Cements

• For use in areas where there are high temperatures but no joint movement.
• Typically used in conjunction with other materials for sealing around masonry or factory-built chimneys.

Gaskets

Several specialty gaskets have been developed for sealing joints where caulking may not be appropriate.

Sill Plate Gasket

• Polyethylene foam strips.
• Installed between the foundation and sill plate during construction or where existing house walls meet a new addition.
• Available in 152- and 203-mm (6- and 8-in.) widths on 24-m (79-ft.) rolls.

Electrical Outlet and Lighting Fixture Gaskets

• Foam gaskets are designed to fit behind the cover plates of electrical receptacles, switches and lighting mounts, reducing air leakage into walls and attics.
• Electrical outlet gaskets are more effective when caulked and should be used in conjunction with child-safety plugs to reduce air leakage through electrical sockets.

Foam Backer Rod

• Closed-cell compressible foam “rope.”
• Excellent for filling deep gaps before caulking.
• Available in diameters of 6 to 51 mm (1/4 to 2 in.).

Neoprene Gasket

• Flexible and very durable.
• Excellent for sealing joints and penetrations where movement is to be expected, such as plumbing stacks.

Weatherstripping

Weatherstripping is used to block air leakage around doors and the operable parts of windows. Weatherstripping comes in a variety of shapes; it can be a flat strip, tube or “V” shape and can be designed to work under compression or by sliding along the joint. To be effective, the product must close the gap and not allow air to pass.

When choosing weatherstripping, consider the size of the gap to be sealed and the durability, ease of installation and appearance of the product. Look for products that are flexible and that spring back to their original shape quickly and easily. Avoid products that make it difficult to operate the window or door.

Compression Strips

Use compression strips where there is a pressure stress, such as at the bottom of vertical sliding windows, along attic hatches or on hinged windows and doors.

Closed-Cell Foam

• An adhesive-backed foam stripping available in rolls.
• Easy to install.
• Available as a high-performance compressible polyurethane strip with its own carrier.

Ribbed Closed-Cell Rubber

• An adhesive-backed stripping available in rolls.
• Very durable; easy to install.
• Good for irregular surfaces but less appropriate for accommodating long or varied gap widths.

Tubular Stripping

• Tubular material made with either its own attachment area or on an attachment strip of a different material.
• Rubber type (as opposed to plastic) should be used because it is more durable.
• Generally used as a window or door weatherstrip; installed with nails, staples or screws, depending on the type of attachment strip.
• Highly noticeable when installed.

Tension Strips

Spring Vinyl

• Can be used in the same applications as compression strips as well as in sliding joints in double- hung windows and doors.
• Adhesive-backed; easy to install.
• Two types available:
  • small-format “V” strip for narrow gaps, such as tight-fitting double-hung windows; and
  • large format for wide gaps, such as loose windows and doors.
• Good durability; polypropylene type should be chosen over other plastics.

Spring Metal

• Generally used as a door weatherstrip; most effective when under light compression.
• Installed using small tacks.
• Metal can permanently deform.

Combination Types

Spring-Loaded/Self-Adjusting Weatherstripping

• Uses a spring mechanism that allows it to adapt to unequal distances from the weatherstrip to the door or window.
• Effective for doors and hinged windows.
• Install with screws through an attachment strip.
• Can be used in conjunction with “V” strips.

Magnetic-Strip Systems

• Magnetic attraction between a magnetic strip mounted on the door/window frame and a metal strip mounted on the door/window provides the seal.
• Effective for doors and hinged windows in moderate climatic conditions.
• May not provide good seal in cold temperatures due to condensation and frost formation (the PVC case may stiffen and split).
• Good durability; highly noticeable when installed.

Door Bottoms, Sweeps and Thresholds

The bottoms of doors can be sealed using a number of systems: door sweeps, door thresholds and door bottoms. Door bottoms and sweeps are usually more durable than thresholds, although they often provide a less effective seal.

Door Sweeps

• A vinyl pile or rubber sweep.
• Screwed via attachment strip to door bottom.
• Effective where a carpet has a low pile or is absent altogether.

Partial Threshold

• A vinyl or rubber strip, attached to the door threshold.
• Provides an excellent seal.
• Can become damaged by traffic and weathering.

Full Threshold

• A combination strip, attached to threshold.
• Requires at least 16 mm (5/8 in.) clearance below the door to be effective.

Door Bottoms

• Combination strips of vinyl pile or compressible rubber.
• Attachment strip fits over door bottom.
• Requires a clearance of 8 to 13 mm (1/3 to 1/2 in.) under door.

Tape

Duct Tape

• Vinyl and foil tapes can be used to seal around the seams of heating ductwork to reduce air leakage, especially where ducting passes through unheated areas of the house.

Sheathing Tape

• Available for sealing the seams of housewrap wind-barrier material and polyethylene air-barrier material.

Other Items

Electrical Box Air Barriers

• Plastic boxes placed around electrical outlet and switch boxes before installation.
• Equipped with a flange for sealing to the main air barrier.
• Also act as vapour barriers.

Part III: Vapour-Barrier Materials

Requirements for Vapour Barriers

The vapour barrier is an important component of the house envelope; it provides some protection from moisture damage to the structure and the insulation materials. To be effective, the vapour barrier must be:

• resistant to the flow of water vapour;
• durable; and
• located on the warm side of insulation.

The vapour barrier does not need to be perfectly continuous like an air barrier, but it should cover as much of the building envelope as possible. Although it needs to be located on the warm side of the insulation, the vapour barrier can be installed part way into the wall, provided that no more than one third of the insulating value of the wall is on the warm side of the vapour barrier. This should be reduced to one quarter or less of the insulating value in very cold climates or in buildings with high moisture sources such as swimming pools.

Like an air barrier, the vapour barrier can be made up of different materials; even some existing building components such as plywood, paint or vinyl wallpaper may form part of the vapour barrier.

Vapour-Barrier Components

The effectiveness of vapour-barrier material is measured in terms of its “perm” rating. The lower the perm rating, the more effective the vapour barrier.

Materials that are considered to be effective vapour barriers include the following:

• polyethylene;
• aluminum foil;
• some types of paints;
• some types and thicknesses of insulation;
• vinyl wallpaper; and
• exterior-grade plywood.

In most older houses, the layers of oil-based primer paint and varnish finishes can function as an adequate vapour barrier for walls and ceilings. Areas that most often require special applications of vapour barriers include interlocking ceiling tiles and new drywall. Pay special attention to areas of high humidity, such as kitchens and bathrooms.

Choosing Vapour Barrier Materials

Any material used as a vapour barrier will need to be durable and resistant to moisture flow. Once these characteristics are met, the following factors should be considered:

• Is it easy to install?
• Can the material also act as insulation or an air barrier?
• Is it appropriate to the other work being done on the home?

Part IV: Health and Safety Considerations

If proper precautions are taken, retrofitting should pose no threat to the health and safety of the occupants or to those doing the work. Almost all building materials are potentially hazardous, but, if they are handled and installed with care, the work can be done easily and safely.

Safety reminders for each type of retrofit job are noted in the chapters that follow. This section provides general construction-safety tips and guidelines for working with different types of retrofit materials.

General Construction Safety

• Common tools such as hammers, utility knives, staple guns, ladders, rakes and power tools must be handled with care. More complicated equipment such as blowers, foamers and sprayers require special instruction and practice.
• Have a first-aid kit and a fire extinguisher handy and know how to use them.
• Protect your back when lifting heavy objects; do not lift and reach at the same time.
• Take special care when handling heavy or bulky objects, especially when going up and down stairs and ladders.
• Smoking is especially hazardous. Do not take smoke breaks near insulation or fumes.
• Keep your work site well organized with tools out of the way of traffic, and give yourself plenty of clear space to manoeuvre.
• Make sure that the work space is well lighted and ventilated.
• Ensure proper electrical supply for power tools.
• Wear appropriate protective clothing for the job at hand.
• Do not work in an attic on a hot day. Heat stress can cause accidents and serious illness.

Protecting Yourself and Your Family

Many of today’s materials give off particles, fibres or vapours that can be harmful to the installer and anyone in the immediate area. Even natural materials such as sawdust and plaster dust can be harmful. Often, the hazard is not from the primary material but from binders, solvents, stabilizers or other additives of which you may not be aware.

Fortunately, there are a number of things you can do to ensure that your retrofit job is done safely and effectively. Maintaining a clean work area and separating it from the rest of the house will minimize exposure to materials.

• Keep fibrous materials and materials that generate vapours well sealed until they are needed, and close them in containers at the end of the work day.
• Vacuum the work area daily to remove fibres and dust.
• Provide ventilation for the work area and isolate it from the rest of the house by closing doors or hanging curtains of plastic.
• Provide extra ventilation for the rest of the house while the work is in progress and during any curing or drying period.

Read this section carefully and follow the recommended safety procedures for working with various materials.

Insulation and Other Particulate Materials

Fibrous insulation materials such as glass fibre and mineral wool can easily irritate the skin, eyes and respiratory system. Long sleeves, tight cuffs and loose, thick clothing will help minimize any skin irritations. Special barrier creams that protect the skin when working with fibrous materials are available from safety-supply houses.

Wear goggles whenever there is any possibility of insulation dust coming in contact with the eyes. Eyes can easily become irritated or inflamed by brittle glass or mineral fibres, and permanent damage can result.

Wear a mask for non-toxic particles if there is a possibility of breathing airborne particles of insulation material. The tiny fibres from glass and mineral insulations can cause respiratory tract irritation and lung inflammation.

Avoid breathing insulation dusts.

Wear a well-designed, snug-fitting half-mask respirator with a particulate filter when handling glass fibre, mineral wool and cellulose fibre insulation. A half-mask respirator with a High Efficiency Particulate Arrester (HEPA) filter cartridge is recommended when dealing with any insulation that may contain asbestos fibres. The respirators are available through safety-supply houses. Buy a supply of filters rated for the material you are using and change the filters according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

In the case of material that contains or is suspected to contain asbestos, such as vermiculite, do not disturb the material. Check with your local or provincial health authority to determine whether you should consult a professional qualified to work with the material. See Warning on page 29.

Wear a hard hat to prevent head injuries and to protect your hair from insulation particles.

A vacuum cleaner is the preferred method of cleaning up fibres or dust. It is a good idea to attach an extension hose to the exhaust port of the vacuum cleaner and to discharge the vacuum cleaner to the outside to ensure that any particles travelling through the filter are not recirculated in the household air. If you can only sweep up the material, wet it first to prevent particles from becoming airborne.

Vacuum your clothing to avoid spreading insulation material around the house. Wash work clothes separately from other clothing.

Plastic Insulations

Rigid polystyrene insulation is essentially an inert material, but it can shed particles when cut. Use a face mask when cutting board stock.

Polyurethane and polyisocyanurate insulations give off harmful vapours when the rigid boards are being manufactured and when the material is being sprayed in place on the job site. The vapour causes skin and eye irritation and breathing difficulties, even at low levels of exposure. Residual amounts of vapour may be present with the rigid board material. Make sure the work area is well ventilated. These types of rigid boards will also shed particles when cut; use a mask as for polystyrene.

When applying the spray-in-place material, contractors take special safety precautions and use respirators. If you plan to have foam insulation installed inside your home, provide additional ventilation until the material has cured.

Caulking

A variety of caulking materials have widely different chemical compositions. However, all caulking materials share the following common characteristics:

• They all use solvents to keep the material pliable until it is installed.
• Once applied, the solvents will eva-porate and fumes will be given off as the material sets or cures.

Fumes from caulking can cause respiratory irritation or other allergic reactions. Make sure the work area is well ventilated and provide additional ventilation to the home during the curing period. The curing time can vary from days to weeks.

Note: Follow directions when caulking is specified for exterior use only.

Part V: Special Health Considerations

Retrofitting poses potential health problems for people with allergies, asthma or chemical sensitivities. The following are options for those in that situation:

• Choose materials carefully.
• Take extra precautions when working with the material.
• Plan the work to minimize exposure.

Some materials are less troublesome than others. By carefully choosing materials, exposure to irritating substances can be avoided or reduced. For example, rigid board insulations do not shed dust or particles unless they are cut, and some caulkings have a shorter curing period than others. Also, finishing materials such as paints and stains with reduced toxicity are now available for the chemically sensitive.

Being cautious when working with materials can also reduce exposure for you and your family. Segregate the work area, using sheets of plastic if necessary, and don’t wear work clothing in other areas of the house. Keep the work area clean, vacuuming frequently. Store materials outside of the house until they are needed, and keep caulking tubes, insulation bundles and paint cans closely covered when not in use. Provide additional ventilation to the work area and to the whole house while work is in progress and during curing periods.

Health considerations may be a major factor in the decision to insulate from the outside of the house instead of the inside. If you do work from the inside, plan the job so that it’s done as quickly as possible. This may mean hiring a contractor to do all or part of the work or staging an old-fashioned work bee. Where major renovations and retrofit will affect the whole house, you may wish to consider sending the family on a vacation or moving to temporary quarters while the work is under way.

If you have special health concerns, you may also wish to seek advice from your allergist or family doctor, who may be able to help you select materials that are more easily tolerated. For the chemically sensitive, this may involve a series of exposure tests to small samples of material. Your allergist also may be able to direct you to contractors who are experienced in undertaking renovation work for clients with allergies or chemical sensitivities.

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